Editorial

In Conversation: le PÈRE Co-Founder Abhi Janamanchi

The buzzy fashion brand’s intimate in-store sets, featuring the likes of Denzel Curry and J. Balvin, have turned Orchard St into downtown’s most chaotic stage. We catch up with co-founder Abhimanyu Janamanchi on what happens when the ideas keep getting bigger and the block gets too small.

By
Akram Shah

AS: le PÈRE started with clothes. Now it’s global artists, a community space, and, depending who you ask, a few too many noise complaints. Was that shift instinct or intention?

AJ: I wouldn’t necessarily call it a shift as it felt like a natural progression for us. Given our music backgrounds, we always wanted to incorporate working with musicians, music events, and community-driven programming into our brand ethos. Opening our flagship in LES presented the perfect opportunity to do just that.

Rather than looking for spaces to pop up at and host these one-offs, we now have the ability to treat our own store as a hub that we designed and built to host everything from concerts, film screenings, comedy shows, to intimate gatherings, wine-and-cheeses, and closet sales.

The raison d’être of the brand will always be clothing, but our connection to music, uplifting artists and the emphasis on building our community through eclectic programming have been priorities from the jump.

AS: You’ve called le PÈRE a platform more than a brand. What does that actually mean, day to day?

AJ: The best brands today represent so much more than just a vehicle for selling clothes or pushing a design identity. We started le PÈRE with the hopes of uplifting and championing the burgeoning creative community we cultivated working across industries, music specifically, by collaborating with them to bring their artwork to life in conversation with pieces in each of our collections.

Collaboration is such a crucial part of our process, when it comes to everything from shoots to clothing graphics and everything in between. Much of this stems from our vision for the le PÈRE: Arthouse collective-meets-contemporary luxury menswear brand.

We see le PÈRE as being comprised of equal parts incubator, art collective, curation, and community hub. And with that, the brand feels more like a platform that highlights our Quartier as we like to call, and decenters the founding team/traditional fashion, cult-of-personality Creative Director model. Out of many, one.

Credit: instagram.com/lepere
Credit: instagram.com/lepere

AS: What does expressive masculinity look like to you right now, and how has that definition changed as the brand keeps growing?

AJ: We like to think of our approach as being defined by an exploration of sensual, expressive masculinity. Much of this is informed by the narratives we seek to tell through our clothes and collections, but also in a visual and tactile sense. It lives in the weight of the coat on your shoulders, the way a collar sits, or the brush of a ribbed knit against the skin.

Our masculine ideal here isn’t rigid or overly constructed—he’s reflective, complex, a little undone. The clothes start to represent a framework for expression, rather than armor. Visually and narratively, this aesthetic walks the line between understated and subversive. There are nods to tailoring, but softened.

The evolution of sensual masculinity for us is largely informed by the different stories we explore through each collection. There is an acknowledgement of the provenance of ideas and beliefs we hold about who wears what and what that means, but ultimately, it’s masculinity reimagined not through dominance, but through curiosity, sensitivity and depth.

AS: Why Orchard? What made that stretch of downtown the right place to build something this loud and this personal?

AJ: The opening of our flagship store in LES felt like the perfect storm of circumstance and where we wanted to be. We spend a lot of time down here with our friends, whether it’s going out to eat, vintage shopping, pulling up on different pop-ups every weekend, or you name it.

In many ways, LES as a neighborhood marries legacy, grit, culture, creativity—all happening on top of and next to each other. Which coincidentally is kind of how we see the brand—underground but polished, high-brow but accessible. There’s a lovable friction in this neighborhood, and we wanted to be inside of that.

Not to mention being next to all of the other amazing brands and stores that were already here or are relative newcomers like us. We’d been looking at different spaces in other neighborhoods for a while, but when we first saw this spot on the corner of Orchard & Broome, we knew that had to be the place.

AS: You’ve hosted Denzel Curry and J. Balvin inside a boutique. What makes an artist or a moment feel right for this space?

AJ: All of the artists we’ve hosted to date feel pretty distinctive from one another in terms of their style, sound, and fanbase. And yet, that’s what also feels like the unifying throughline between all of them.

We seek out artists who we feel are tastemakers and singular in their respective niches in terms of what music they make and the creative worlds they’re building with their art. Each time we bring in an artist, it’s a chance to recontextualize the brand through the lens of each musician.

AS: What’s something you’ve learned about building a physical space in a world that’s mostly feed first?

AJ: The lack of third spaces in our everyday life is something everyone is feeling. There are so few places that most people, mainly young people, can go to that aren’t dictated by your ability to spend money or some form of membership that you need to have to enter.

Especially in a city like NYC, it can be hard to figure out what to do or where to go to find something new or interesting that you might not have known about before.

AS: What actually draws people in, not just to shop, but to stay, to return, to feel something? What would you like to see evolve in how events shape that?

AJ: Feeling welcomed into a space is the most crucial part of stepping foot into anywhere. Opening a store and being intentional about how we interact with everyone who walks through our doors has been an essential part of learning how to operate a space that seeks to do more than just sell clothes.

Whether it’s a conversation they struck up with someone that they met at an event, an artist they got to see perform, the trust they developed with one of our sales stylists, people need to feel some form of connection to the store or space. Otherwise, it’s just another spot where things happen and you might find something to buy.

It might sound obvious, but events are one of the last places where complete strangers with similar interests might meet each other. That serendipity lends itself to making people want to come back and developing trust with the store as a programming hub.

AS: What’s the tension between being a fashion label and a cultural producer? Where do those two identities meet or clash?

AJ: All of the clothing brands and designers I admire either are cultural producers or shape culture, in one way or another. I think when you have a truly defined point of view and clarity of vision, the right people not only resonate with it, but want to champion it as well.

Culture can be such a nebulous catch-all these days, but there’s something remarkable about seeing the best fashion labels making culture meet or bend to them. So truly having something to say creatively and knowing who you’re speaking to goes much further in terms of making an impact.

I also feel like the best fashion labels don’t set out to be cultural producers, but rather the result of their craft gives them the permission and ability to do so. These two identities are intertwined for me when done right. I think tension arises when you start thinking about how to make an impact rather than honing in on what you are trying to make.

AS: You’re moving beyond the store with One Night Only. What does leaving the boutique unlock for you creatively, and what kind of world are you trying to build when the walls come down?

AJ: Launching One Night Only weirdly feels like opening a store again. Except this time it won’t exist after the night it happens.

Going to concerts and going to a clothing boutique obviously are radically different experiences, but everyone knows when you’ve been to one that’s memorable. Crafting this unique live concert experience has been a fun exercise in putting myself back in the shoes of a music-lover hungry to see their favorite artists.

From curating the lineup to finding non-traditional venues and spaces where you might not expect to see a show, the real fun comes from creating an experience that’s both ephemeral and unforgettable because everyone who came feels like they witnessed something they’ll never see again. And those who didn’t will always be left wondering what they missed.

From a creative standpoint, the series is especially exciting because each one will look completely different from the last as we continue to experiment with everything from stage design to venue to artist selection.

AS: Dream project. Any format. Music, fashion, events, or all three. Go.

AJ: The dream is to create a multidisciplinary arts exhibition mixed with a festival. Over the span of a weekend, this gathering will be host to a number of music performances, film screenings, talks and panels with today’s most compelling creatives and thinkers, as well as art and architectural installations.